AccessVegas.com Las Vegas Restaurants - The Capital Grille Steakhouse at Fashion Show Mall

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The Capital Grille

by Zabrina Rodriguez-Rapozo

As we entered the Capital Grille for a cozy Saturday lunch, the hostess asked if we had a reservation which seemed odd for a place gleaming with empty tables. After gathering some menus and seating us at a beautiful table overlooking the Wynn resort, the question seemed more like a formality and not a requirement for a weekend lunch.

I have always been impressed by steak houses' stark white layers of table cloth and waiters using the popular "crummer" utensil to dust ubiquitous crumbs of bread on to the floor. Such was the case at the Capital Grille.

As a polite, but not overly pushy waiter got our drink orders and recited the specials we close starters of soup to warm us from the nip in Las Vegas weather. Lobster bisque was nicely done with large chunks of fresh lobster meat. On first taste the bisque had good flavor and velvety touch, but on subsequent spoons, the flavor seemed to head south with a watery finish. The French onion soup topped with the classic toasted bread and gruyere cheese had a better ending. Rich broth and perfectly melted onions were only enhanced by the crouton that managed to stay crisp and cheese that was not overly chewy. Along with the starters we received a lovely basket of cracker bread and rolls dusted with sesame and sunflower seeds. The perfectly crusty bread and honest to goodness butter were a perfect combination to sop up the remnants of our soups.

A steak house at heart, the Capital Grille's lunch menu boasted several steaks, substantial salads, sandwiches and even a burger which sounded far classier than the average sesame-seed bun encased standard. We choose the salmon with mustard sauce and roasted chicken entrées. As the menu is of the al a carte variety, the entrees came unadorned except for sauce or a half lemon, so sides are a must. From asparagus with béarnaise sauce, to creamed spinach and fried onion strings the offerings were atypical steak house fare. We choose the mashed potatoes which were delicately seasoned and creamy. The salmon had a beautiful brown sear and came medium as requested. Its accompanying sauce, (the mustard) was lacking in flavor. Nice bits of coarse ground mustard seeds peppered the sauce, but it seemed to be missing a more piquant "mustard" flavor. After a spritz of the half lemon that came with the chicken most of the flavor quibbles were resolved. The chicken, roasted and juicy shamed every supermarket rotisserie bird, that dare call itself chicken. The dish was unadorned by sauce except for the lemon which provided a refreshing bite to the chicken.

Attentive and personable our waiter kept drinks filled, opened a curtain to showcase the strip below and made relevant conversation.

A glance through the dessert menu revealed crème brulee, gelatos, cheese cakes and chocolate hazelnut delights, but my heart was set on the key lime pie. Tall and glorious the filling of lime and creamy goodness was not overly tart or sweet, just sublime. (Had to use the pun!) A crunchy, sweet shell hugged the perfectly executed lime cream.

Reservations or not, the Capital Grille is an elegant choice for a special evening out, or a quiet Saturday lunch.

Lunch served Monday through Friday from 11:30am - 3:00pm and Saturday from 12:00pm - 3:00pm. Dinner served Monday through Saturday from 5:00pm - 11:00pm and Sunday from 4:00pm - 10:00pm.

Cuisine:
Steakhouse

Location:
Fashion Show Mall - Third Level
3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109

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